At about 90 min. drive (about 48 kms) from Udaipur in Rajasthan lies a very popular dham, Nathdwara set amidst idyllic hills on the left bank of the Banas river, where one can see devotees in large numbers flocking for worship. The place is most popular for its sacred Vaishnava temple of Lord Srinathji, the manifestation of Lord Krishna.

        Sri Nathdwara or the gateway leading to the Srinathji is also the centre of the Pushtimarg Sampradaya, a doctrine created by Jagatguru Sri Vallabhacharya. One can find the idol of Srinathji, sculpted out of one piece of black marble belonging to the 12th century and was first installed by Sri Vallabhacharya in a small temple at Jatipura, near Mathura. The little town is a honeycomb of lanes and alleys leading to the hub of activity, the Srinathji temple.

        The Haveli of Srinathji(as the temple is called), was once a royal palace of the Rajput rulers. Over 1000 devotees reach the temple early in the morning to serve the Lord, each day of the year. Getting up during the early hours for the first darshan is a regular observation where Lord Sir Nathji resides in regal splendour. Darshans or glimpses of Srinathji can be sought 8 times in the day. Collectively known as Ashtaya, the 8 darshans are Mangala, Shrungar, Gwal, Rajbhog, Uthhapan, Bhog, Sandhaya Aarti and Shayan. In each of them the leelas (divine manifestations) of the Lord are described and harmonized with His daily routine.

        Groups of devotees constantly flush into the temple, pushing, pulling and reaching out, sometimes even getting hurt in the process. The darshan is like a matter of life and death for them, and they endure it bravely eight times in a day just for those few seconds.

        Sri Nathdwara overflows with culture. The Mewar region was in the forefront of creative art, architecture and music patronized by illustrious rulers like Maharana Kumbha and Maharana Sangha. It has particularly been known for its tradition of painting and visual culture. Over 200 artists live and paint for their livelihood in Sri Nathdwara. These artists mostly reside in Chitron ki gali (Street of paintings) and Chitrakaron ka mohallah (colony of painters). Each home here is a painting studio. The artists live like a family, working in and out of each other's homes. Sri Nathdwara is a main centre of pichhwai painting, one of Rajasthan's famous arts.

        Pichhwai are painted in permanent natural colours that do not fade for years. They are also put to use in printing, embroidary, etc. Depiction of the artist as a devotee expressing his love for God is what makes the Nathdwara style distinct from the rest. Art plays an integral part in the ritualistic darshan of Srinathji. A large cloth painting serves as a backdrop to the idol and is sometimes intricate enough to narrate the various leelas of Lord Krishna as Srinathji.

        Pichhwai have deep religious roots and painting, as a form of service, is part of devotional expression. The main themes of the paintings are based on the numerous festivals of the Srinathji temple. They show the figure of Srinathji, decked in different festive costumes, whether it is in the vibrant colours of Holi or the festivities of Janmashtmi, or the ever famous Raas-Leela. No wonder, a pichhwai is often a group effort, where several skillful painters work together under the supervision of a master of the art.

Best season
July-September, October, and November.
March-April is good for colourful festivals like Holi.
Summer is searingly hot.

Accommodation
A few reasonably good hotels and guest houses.

• The most convenient for reaching the temple on foot is the Gopal Niwas Hotel, tel: 2595, 2301.
• Hotel Utsav, Tel: 2277, 2278, 2675. STD Code 02953.
• Heritage Resorts, tel: 77202, 77203, 528628; Fax: 527549, is about 25 km away at Eklingji. STD code 0294.

Shopping
        Delicious sweets, best bought from the temples, can be preserved for weeks. Pichhwais and other types of paintings, oil-based natural attars (perfumes), jewellery and tie and dye clothes are other good buys. Nathdwara is also famous for the art of minakari. The mina work done here on silver and gold is the best in the country.

Tourist information centres

• Government of Rajsthan, Tourist Reception Centre, Tourist Hotel, (Government Hostel), M.I Road, Jaipur.
  Tel : (0141)-365256, 370180.
• Government of India Tourist Office, State Hotel, Khasa Kothi, Jaipur.
  Tel : (0141)-372200.
• The Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation has set up an Adventure Cell in Jaipur from where one can obtain assistance and information about different outlets for adventure in Rajasthan.
  Tel : (0141)-202586, 203531, 375466).